My new room in Jider El Moghen. Can you find yourself on the wall?
Me and my site mate in front of Megan's house. I love her mohawk!
Sunday, September 28, 2008
i survived a scorpion... what else you got?
This experience has tried my comfort zone and made me do things I have never done before. I will share some of my experiences here. In the last month I have fasted with locals, had in depth conversations in another language, eaten mayo on bread, worn silver nail polish, got bit by a scorpion, made mosquito repellent for a community, bought a baby goat, and started building myself a home.
I know the silver nail polish part of it seems random right? But I found some sparkly silver nail polish that I would never wear under normal circumstances. But these are nowhere near normal circumstances. I put some on and it made me feel like a girl again! haha. It reminds me a little of star trek or something. Maybe that is also because I have been couped up in Rosso watching endless marathons of "Battle Star Galactica" for a few days. It is the first thing I hear in the morning, and now these boys have the video game too so it is non stop! I have to admit that it was entertaining but I have missed a lot of episodes and now I don't know what the "frack" (as they would say) is going on. haha, I cannot believe I just said that. The girls in Trarza region have to get our hands on the sex and the city series, or something equally as obnoxiously girly to regain control of the living room.
On a more serious note, Ramadan has been interesting but it is finally almost over. We have 3 more days until Eid, which is the big party that finalizes Ramadan and restores order to people's lives. I say 3 days but it could be more or less depending on when we see the moon again- because that actually signifies the commencement of the festivities. People are really on edge and extra crabby, which I can totally understand because Megan and I decided to fast for a total of 3 long, hot days and it was difficile. It did make breaking fast at dusk more enjoyable though, I never felt like I really earned a glass of juice before but I definatly deserved it after a long day of not eating or drinking. We mostly did it just because we do not have a market in town and since no one makes lunch (because they are fasting) we couldn't even mooch off of others lunches; but it was still fun to really feel the pain with our community. The hardest part is at 6:30 pm when there is only about 30 minutes left and you can smell what people are making. Then when you can eat, the food tastes so much better. We also got up at 4:30 in the morning to eat bread and mayonnaise before the sun rose to try to hold us over until dusk. I don't know if it helped but it was fun eating in a sleepy daze. Megan cheated once during the day and had 4 skittles. She was so funny about it, but I told her that allah would probably forgive her because she is new. Our community loved that we were fasting and said that we were true bilaniya (locals).
I am learning French from listening to Megan speak. I can understand it pretty well but cannot form sentences, especially when Hassaniya is trying to seep out of my mouth. It is funny though because Megan says things in French that she would say in English and just directly translates it. I don't know if the translation always works with the English humor because sometimes people just stare at her, but I get what she is trying to say and I laugh. It is as though she is only speaking to me sometimes and we are in our own little toubab world. We are able to have some good conversations with some of our new friends. I never thought I would be able to have conversations about African history, the refugee tents in our town, why not all Americans are like Bush, and even dispelling rumors that Christopher Columbus was the first person to discover America with locals in a small African town in their own language! And all this in only 3 months, I cannot wait to see what progress I have left in the next 2 years. That's right, a week ago we celebrated our 3 month mark! It has gone by so fast, hasn't it? I bet you didn't even realize I was gone yet!
My mom asked me if I have done any work yet and I laughed. During Ramadan people don't like to work much. But I did make my first batch of neem cream, the mosquito repellent. Our new Wolof friend, Bobacar, helped us find a neem tree and collect leaves. Then we boiled a liter of leaves with a liter of water. While the water was heating we cut up the local peanut soap into shreads in a bucket. Then we added the hot water and some oil and whipped it up until it was creamy. We did it in front of Bobacar's house and all the people living around him came to see what the crazy toubabs were doing and I told them how mosquito's didn't like the smell of neem cream and that although it doesn't kill mosquitos it does decrease the amount of bites. They went wild for it and everyone ran back to get little jars or baggies or socks to fill up on their personal stash. The kids loved it and were digging their hands in and having cream wars with each other. Bobacar said that that night everyone put it on. He also said some people were confused because they still got bites. I will have to explain again that it just reduces the amount of bites because it really works and I want people to use it because these kids are so cute and I don't want anyone getting malaria while I am here. I did not have my camera, sadly, but plan to do it again when I return.
The neem cream day was a lot of fun until that night. After we broke fast with Bobacar's family we were just lounging around in the dark, waiting for our second dinner and stumbling through a conversation in French when I jumped up and started screaming. I had a sharp bite on my right knee and when I reached into my skirt to flick the bugger away it fell on my left leg and got me again before I was able to grab it and throw it away. It was a scorpion. I felt it in my hand and my knee instantly went numb. By the time we found a flashlight it was gone so I did not get to have my revenge. They assured me that scorpions here are not deadly and that I should live until morning. I stayed for the second dinner and then went home where I just took some benedryl and retired to my tent. I was excited to get back to reading "Twilight," a vampire romance novel which I was surprisingly enthralled in considering it was my first vampire or romance novel. The benedryl made me really tired but I wanted to finish my last chapter because the main character had just gotten bit by a vampire and things were getting intense. She was describing the venom pulsing through her blood as my own scorpion venom was pulsing up and down my now completely numb leg. I was drifting in and out of my own vampire drama in my head under a benedryl daze when a bat who made a home in the front entryway flew over my head squeeking in an alarming way. I freaked out and almost ran to seek shelter in Megan's tent. Needless to say, I survived the night and my Wolof friends made fun of me the next day for being so worried about the scorpion. I don't care what they say, I still think its a major feat. The next night I was very jumpy to everything around me. I made somewhat of a scene when a giant spider crawled on my arm and our friend, Mohammed, said "you study biology, you should not be afraid of haphabas" I don't care what I studied, feeling a creepy crawly on my arm sends shivers down my spine.
We have also made some productive steps in making a garden! We have to put a fence up first because the goats would have a hay day with our plants if we did not protect it. To make a fence we first had to gather big sticks to bury in the ground for our posts. Megan and I just wandered off trying to find sticks when we realized we may need some tools or some sort of directional help in the matter. We asked our neighbor and she volunteered her young son and his friend who had come over to play to help us. They both shot her a "maaaam" sort of look and begrudgingly grabbed a very dull "axe" and led us off towards our trees. After a few hours of cutting down limbs off trees and taking off all the leaves and twigs we had our posts for our garden and paid the kids in smartees and warheads for their help. They were very appreciative for the bon bons but were a little confused about the sourness of the warheads. The looks on their faces were priceless.
We also learned how to make maafe, which is meat, rice, and potatoes with a peanuty sauce. It is so good and we have been obsessed over it since my host family made it a few months ago. We asked my counterpart, Dado to teach us. We bought all the supplies and went over to her house to dig in. It was delicious! I ate until I couldn't even move anymore. Her daughter, Fatimatou, is the cutest baby I have ever seen and she tried helping a bit too. She new better than I did about some things. I am excited to get to watch her grow up.
My mom filled me in a little about goings on on the home front and it made me miss you all like crazy! Here are a few shout outs:
-Grandma: I got your package! Thanks! One of the drink packets exploded and my hands are now died red, which is amusing. Everyone appreciates the magazines so we can keep up on our hollywood gossip. I can't believe Bernie Mac died!
-Grandpa: You would love it here. Everyone likes to talk a lot and share their life stories, I have used almost a whole roll of duck tape and twisty ties putting my room together, and they love their second hand baseball caps here. I found some really funny ones in the market with laundry detergent on it and stuff.
-Anna: Have fun at homecoming! I wish I was there to do your hair, even if you, like me, would never fully admit to liking what was done with your hair. Either way, I am sure you will look beautiful. Make sure mom takes at least a few pictures where she does not chop the top of your head off. I heard you are a stud in athletic training class. Mike would be so proud! haha. I am as well; but not surprised, I knew you would be!
-Tarah: I heard you swam varsity on the relay! That's my girl! How did it go? I wish I was back in highschool for just one more swim meet, I miss swimming so hard you can't even pull yourself out of the pool. I am truly jealous you are just starting your high school journey, love every second and don't take yourself too seriously cause this time is so much fun! Take care of my sister for me. I know you two have each other's backs.
-Sam: I loved getting to talk to you last night. You and Ryan should get on your applications right away so I can come visit you. There is a cruise that goes from capetown south africa to Rio. If you end up in South America maybe I can do that and then swing by you. Are you having a heart attack yet mom?
-Kev: Get your visa and think seriously of coming to visit. You won't regret it. Enough said.
In general I hear that America is in a bind right now and I hope that everyone is staying happy and healthy. If Obama is not elected president I may not return home and I suggest everyone moves here instead, we can build a little compound in the country and live happily ever after.
I know the silver nail polish part of it seems random right? But I found some sparkly silver nail polish that I would never wear under normal circumstances. But these are nowhere near normal circumstances. I put some on and it made me feel like a girl again! haha. It reminds me a little of star trek or something. Maybe that is also because I have been couped up in Rosso watching endless marathons of "Battle Star Galactica" for a few days. It is the first thing I hear in the morning, and now these boys have the video game too so it is non stop! I have to admit that it was entertaining but I have missed a lot of episodes and now I don't know what the "frack" (as they would say) is going on. haha, I cannot believe I just said that. The girls in Trarza region have to get our hands on the sex and the city series, or something equally as obnoxiously girly to regain control of the living room.
On a more serious note, Ramadan has been interesting but it is finally almost over. We have 3 more days until Eid, which is the big party that finalizes Ramadan and restores order to people's lives. I say 3 days but it could be more or less depending on when we see the moon again- because that actually signifies the commencement of the festivities. People are really on edge and extra crabby, which I can totally understand because Megan and I decided to fast for a total of 3 long, hot days and it was difficile. It did make breaking fast at dusk more enjoyable though, I never felt like I really earned a glass of juice before but I definatly deserved it after a long day of not eating or drinking. We mostly did it just because we do not have a market in town and since no one makes lunch (because they are fasting) we couldn't even mooch off of others lunches; but it was still fun to really feel the pain with our community. The hardest part is at 6:30 pm when there is only about 30 minutes left and you can smell what people are making. Then when you can eat, the food tastes so much better. We also got up at 4:30 in the morning to eat bread and mayonnaise before the sun rose to try to hold us over until dusk. I don't know if it helped but it was fun eating in a sleepy daze. Megan cheated once during the day and had 4 skittles. She was so funny about it, but I told her that allah would probably forgive her because she is new. Our community loved that we were fasting and said that we were true bilaniya (locals).
I am learning French from listening to Megan speak. I can understand it pretty well but cannot form sentences, especially when Hassaniya is trying to seep out of my mouth. It is funny though because Megan says things in French that she would say in English and just directly translates it. I don't know if the translation always works with the English humor because sometimes people just stare at her, but I get what she is trying to say and I laugh. It is as though she is only speaking to me sometimes and we are in our own little toubab world. We are able to have some good conversations with some of our new friends. I never thought I would be able to have conversations about African history, the refugee tents in our town, why not all Americans are like Bush, and even dispelling rumors that Christopher Columbus was the first person to discover America with locals in a small African town in their own language! And all this in only 3 months, I cannot wait to see what progress I have left in the next 2 years. That's right, a week ago we celebrated our 3 month mark! It has gone by so fast, hasn't it? I bet you didn't even realize I was gone yet!
My mom asked me if I have done any work yet and I laughed. During Ramadan people don't like to work much. But I did make my first batch of neem cream, the mosquito repellent. Our new Wolof friend, Bobacar, helped us find a neem tree and collect leaves. Then we boiled a liter of leaves with a liter of water. While the water was heating we cut up the local peanut soap into shreads in a bucket. Then we added the hot water and some oil and whipped it up until it was creamy. We did it in front of Bobacar's house and all the people living around him came to see what the crazy toubabs were doing and I told them how mosquito's didn't like the smell of neem cream and that although it doesn't kill mosquitos it does decrease the amount of bites. They went wild for it and everyone ran back to get little jars or baggies or socks to fill up on their personal stash. The kids loved it and were digging their hands in and having cream wars with each other. Bobacar said that that night everyone put it on. He also said some people were confused because they still got bites. I will have to explain again that it just reduces the amount of bites because it really works and I want people to use it because these kids are so cute and I don't want anyone getting malaria while I am here. I did not have my camera, sadly, but plan to do it again when I return.
The neem cream day was a lot of fun until that night. After we broke fast with Bobacar's family we were just lounging around in the dark, waiting for our second dinner and stumbling through a conversation in French when I jumped up and started screaming. I had a sharp bite on my right knee and when I reached into my skirt to flick the bugger away it fell on my left leg and got me again before I was able to grab it and throw it away. It was a scorpion. I felt it in my hand and my knee instantly went numb. By the time we found a flashlight it was gone so I did not get to have my revenge. They assured me that scorpions here are not deadly and that I should live until morning. I stayed for the second dinner and then went home where I just took some benedryl and retired to my tent. I was excited to get back to reading "Twilight," a vampire romance novel which I was surprisingly enthralled in considering it was my first vampire or romance novel. The benedryl made me really tired but I wanted to finish my last chapter because the main character had just gotten bit by a vampire and things were getting intense. She was describing the venom pulsing through her blood as my own scorpion venom was pulsing up and down my now completely numb leg. I was drifting in and out of my own vampire drama in my head under a benedryl daze when a bat who made a home in the front entryway flew over my head squeeking in an alarming way. I freaked out and almost ran to seek shelter in Megan's tent. Needless to say, I survived the night and my Wolof friends made fun of me the next day for being so worried about the scorpion. I don't care what they say, I still think its a major feat. The next night I was very jumpy to everything around me. I made somewhat of a scene when a giant spider crawled on my arm and our friend, Mohammed, said "you study biology, you should not be afraid of haphabas" I don't care what I studied, feeling a creepy crawly on my arm sends shivers down my spine.
We have also made some productive steps in making a garden! We have to put a fence up first because the goats would have a hay day with our plants if we did not protect it. To make a fence we first had to gather big sticks to bury in the ground for our posts. Megan and I just wandered off trying to find sticks when we realized we may need some tools or some sort of directional help in the matter. We asked our neighbor and she volunteered her young son and his friend who had come over to play to help us. They both shot her a "maaaam" sort of look and begrudgingly grabbed a very dull "axe" and led us off towards our trees. After a few hours of cutting down limbs off trees and taking off all the leaves and twigs we had our posts for our garden and paid the kids in smartees and warheads for their help. They were very appreciative for the bon bons but were a little confused about the sourness of the warheads. The looks on their faces were priceless.
We also learned how to make maafe, which is meat, rice, and potatoes with a peanuty sauce. It is so good and we have been obsessed over it since my host family made it a few months ago. We asked my counterpart, Dado to teach us. We bought all the supplies and went over to her house to dig in. It was delicious! I ate until I couldn't even move anymore. Her daughter, Fatimatou, is the cutest baby I have ever seen and she tried helping a bit too. She new better than I did about some things. I am excited to get to watch her grow up.
My mom filled me in a little about goings on on the home front and it made me miss you all like crazy! Here are a few shout outs:
-Grandma: I got your package! Thanks! One of the drink packets exploded and my hands are now died red, which is amusing. Everyone appreciates the magazines so we can keep up on our hollywood gossip. I can't believe Bernie Mac died!
-Grandpa: You would love it here. Everyone likes to talk a lot and share their life stories, I have used almost a whole roll of duck tape and twisty ties putting my room together, and they love their second hand baseball caps here. I found some really funny ones in the market with laundry detergent on it and stuff.
-Anna: Have fun at homecoming! I wish I was there to do your hair, even if you, like me, would never fully admit to liking what was done with your hair. Either way, I am sure you will look beautiful. Make sure mom takes at least a few pictures where she does not chop the top of your head off. I heard you are a stud in athletic training class. Mike would be so proud! haha. I am as well; but not surprised, I knew you would be!
-Tarah: I heard you swam varsity on the relay! That's my girl! How did it go? I wish I was back in highschool for just one more swim meet, I miss swimming so hard you can't even pull yourself out of the pool. I am truly jealous you are just starting your high school journey, love every second and don't take yourself too seriously cause this time is so much fun! Take care of my sister for me. I know you two have each other's backs.
-Sam: I loved getting to talk to you last night. You and Ryan should get on your applications right away so I can come visit you. There is a cruise that goes from capetown south africa to Rio. If you end up in South America maybe I can do that and then swing by you. Are you having a heart attack yet mom?
-Kev: Get your visa and think seriously of coming to visit. You won't regret it. Enough said.
In general I hear that America is in a bind right now and I hope that everyone is staying happy and healthy. If Obama is not elected president I may not return home and I suggest everyone moves here instead, we can build a little compound in the country and live happily ever after.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
the termites ate her homework
First, to get this out of the way- about the Al Qaeda incident that I am sure some of you have heard about.... 12 military soldiers were killed in the far remote deserts of Mauritania 100s of km away from any peace corps volunteer. A similar attack happened here in 2005 and Al Qaeda took responsibility. There is an article on BBC if you are interested for further information. I do not know much more than this but the attack was of military interest and very far from me. I have had nothing but positive experiences with Mauritanians and every person I have encountered is happy to have Americans here and very entertained that I speak like a local. They are a very generous, hospitable, and welcoming people. http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7617223.stm .
So anyways, we are back in Rosso because Megan and I spent almost all of our move in allowance and needed to go to the bank. Combined we could have maybe bought a camel burger, so we had to get to Rosso today. This is why when it started raining last night we were very nervous we would not get out of Jider today. We woke up this morning, and in fact the vans were not leaving from Jider because the roads were "mau zeyn" (not good). We had nothing else to do today and were determined to get to Rosso so we decided to walk with our backpacks to the main road and hope to catch a taxi brusse coming from Gani or Tekane into Rosso. Easier said than done. It is a little over a 2km hike to the road through mud that was sometimes knee high. I almost lost my flip flops and Megan fell in the mud. It was one of those slow motion falls where your feet slip for a few moments and you think to yourself, "I got this, I can recover" until you realize you can't recover and you go down with a splat. We saw a truck ahead and ran the rest of the way to the road yelling. We must have been quite a site, two white girls with their skirts hiked up to just below our knees, covered from head to toe in mud, carrying our shoes and dripping with sweat. I wish some of my friends from home could see me now. I feel like every day I live here is like a scene out of a backpackers dream. The truck was a small Toyota and already had easily 20 people on it but they let us join the party as well. When we got to Rosso there were people there asking us if we were going on to Nouakchott and laughed when we said that, no in fact, Rosso is our final destination. Dismal, flooded, dirty Rosso. I say dismal because of the Lonely Planet quote we found in the LP West Africa book the other day.
These are both quotes taken from Lonely Planet travel books:
"one could almost suggest that Mauritania was the place to avoid...to some the place is the pits - sand and an overwhelming sense of revulsion"
"Rosso is the main Mauritanian-Senegalese border crossing. It's a grubby, haphazard town with a slightly sinister feel. Most travelers breeze through, as there aren't any worthwhile attractions here."
Haha. It may be grubby and haphazard, but to me it is home. Anyways, we arrived in Rosso and walked another 1.5 hours to the bank and back in again knee deep mud and muddy water. One of the giant puddles we trudged through was hiding a dead donkey in it which we were lucky enough to stumble upon. All we needed was a proper shower and when we got to Brandon's house we were informed that there has not been water for 70 hours now. Lovely. Good thing we have mutard to lick us clean a bit. Also since it is Ramadan the restaurant (the only restaurant) is closed so we are now waiting, dirty and hungry for the sun to go down so we can eat.
To clear up the Ramadan situation for those of you who have asked, Jenny, the children do not fast. You do not start fasting until puberty. You also do not fast if you are pregnant, breast feeding, sick, have noncommunicable diseases (diabetes), are "unclean" as in have your period, or are traveling long distances. Although, many pregnant women still fast, which is an issue I may address in small groups. There is no hospital in Jider El Moghen, and I think for the most part people do not usually stay overnight in the hospitals anyways, but the sick are excused. If you are excused from fasting you make up for it a different time. In general, I love breaking fast with families. I love the cold drinks and the fact that everyone has a sense of accomplishment as they have survived another day and really deserve a giant meal. I wish families in the states ate together more often.
So Megan found a house and is living with the Mayor's family. It is an awesome place with a salon, a lumbar (outdoor hanger), big porch, bathroom, and the mayor owns a plot of land and said we could have some space for a garden right next to a small tributary where we can take water. When we were packing up her stuff she gasped because all her papers for school had holes in them. After we picked them up we discovered the root of the problem was a colony of termites that had nested under her books. She could actually use the line "the termites ate my homework, I am sorry."
I slept at Megan's last night since we were going to Rosso this morning and I woke up in the middle of a night to a large long-horned cow standing next to my tent staring at me. I got scared and flashed my light and it ran. They are easily scared. Megan and I went running yesterday at around 6, which is when they bring in the animals that were grazing all day. We came up behind a herd of goats that must of heard our pattering feet because they got scared and scattered in a few directions. The goat herder was not happy with us and yelled in angry hassaniya. It was an accident! We are new to this farm girl type of stuff!
I went to the dispensaire (doctor) the other day to hang out with the staff. On my walk to work I had to stop and wait for 6 monkeys to cross the path and scurry up the palm tree. I love my life. I also can't wait to share it with visitors! I told the mayor's family that my brother, mom, sister, and friends may be coming to visit and they got really excited and said there will be a big party with drums and food and dancing. So everyone figure out your visa stuff and get over here!
So anyways, we are back in Rosso because Megan and I spent almost all of our move in allowance and needed to go to the bank. Combined we could have maybe bought a camel burger, so we had to get to Rosso today. This is why when it started raining last night we were very nervous we would not get out of Jider today. We woke up this morning, and in fact the vans were not leaving from Jider because the roads were "mau zeyn" (not good). We had nothing else to do today and were determined to get to Rosso so we decided to walk with our backpacks to the main road and hope to catch a taxi brusse coming from Gani or Tekane into Rosso. Easier said than done. It is a little over a 2km hike to the road through mud that was sometimes knee high. I almost lost my flip flops and Megan fell in the mud. It was one of those slow motion falls where your feet slip for a few moments and you think to yourself, "I got this, I can recover" until you realize you can't recover and you go down with a splat. We saw a truck ahead and ran the rest of the way to the road yelling. We must have been quite a site, two white girls with their skirts hiked up to just below our knees, covered from head to toe in mud, carrying our shoes and dripping with sweat. I wish some of my friends from home could see me now. I feel like every day I live here is like a scene out of a backpackers dream. The truck was a small Toyota and already had easily 20 people on it but they let us join the party as well. When we got to Rosso there were people there asking us if we were going on to Nouakchott and laughed when we said that, no in fact, Rosso is our final destination. Dismal, flooded, dirty Rosso. I say dismal because of the Lonely Planet quote we found in the LP West Africa book the other day.
These are both quotes taken from Lonely Planet travel books:
"one could almost suggest that Mauritania was the place to avoid...to some the place is the pits - sand and an overwhelming sense of revulsion"
"Rosso is the main Mauritanian-Senegalese border crossing. It's a grubby, haphazard town with a slightly sinister feel. Most travelers breeze through, as there aren't any worthwhile attractions here."
Haha. It may be grubby and haphazard, but to me it is home. Anyways, we arrived in Rosso and walked another 1.5 hours to the bank and back in again knee deep mud and muddy water. One of the giant puddles we trudged through was hiding a dead donkey in it which we were lucky enough to stumble upon. All we needed was a proper shower and when we got to Brandon's house we were informed that there has not been water for 70 hours now. Lovely. Good thing we have mutard to lick us clean a bit. Also since it is Ramadan the restaurant (the only restaurant) is closed so we are now waiting, dirty and hungry for the sun to go down so we can eat.
To clear up the Ramadan situation for those of you who have asked, Jenny, the children do not fast. You do not start fasting until puberty. You also do not fast if you are pregnant, breast feeding, sick, have noncommunicable diseases (diabetes), are "unclean" as in have your period, or are traveling long distances. Although, many pregnant women still fast, which is an issue I may address in small groups. There is no hospital in Jider El Moghen, and I think for the most part people do not usually stay overnight in the hospitals anyways, but the sick are excused. If you are excused from fasting you make up for it a different time. In general, I love breaking fast with families. I love the cold drinks and the fact that everyone has a sense of accomplishment as they have survived another day and really deserve a giant meal. I wish families in the states ate together more often.
So Megan found a house and is living with the Mayor's family. It is an awesome place with a salon, a lumbar (outdoor hanger), big porch, bathroom, and the mayor owns a plot of land and said we could have some space for a garden right next to a small tributary where we can take water. When we were packing up her stuff she gasped because all her papers for school had holes in them. After we picked them up we discovered the root of the problem was a colony of termites that had nested under her books. She could actually use the line "the termites ate my homework, I am sorry."
I slept at Megan's last night since we were going to Rosso this morning and I woke up in the middle of a night to a large long-horned cow standing next to my tent staring at me. I got scared and flashed my light and it ran. They are easily scared. Megan and I went running yesterday at around 6, which is when they bring in the animals that were grazing all day. We came up behind a herd of goats that must of heard our pattering feet because they got scared and scattered in a few directions. The goat herder was not happy with us and yelled in angry hassaniya. It was an accident! We are new to this farm girl type of stuff!
I went to the dispensaire (doctor) the other day to hang out with the staff. On my walk to work I had to stop and wait for 6 monkeys to cross the path and scurry up the palm tree. I love my life. I also can't wait to share it with visitors! I told the mayor's family that my brother, mom, sister, and friends may be coming to visit and they got really excited and said there will be a big party with drums and food and dancing. So everyone figure out your visa stuff and get over here!
Sunday, September 7, 2008
the rains came in
Well I am now officially a volunteer in the United States Peace Corps! We had our swear in ceremony a few weeks ago. The ambassador came to say a few words and we had an elaborate lunch of chicken and vegies! we even had cold fanta! After that we had a celebration and a few of the volunteers made a mexican buffet, which was really good except that the ants thought so too and I literally had ants in my skirt all night biting me. I shook out my skirt the next day and dead ants fell out. Another thing to add to my list of annoying creatures I will get rid of when I meet a genie who grants me one wish. The next day was a day of rest and then everyone packed up all of their belongings and went to their permanent sites. It was sad being a Trarza volunteer because we stayed here in Rosso and watched everyone else sadly depart. I kind of felt abandoned by all these people that have quickly become good friends of mine. I don't know what I will do without Chelsea and Tanya everyday! haha, I am kidding, I love my region mates, I got really lucky with them. I have already said that when I get back to the states I would love to do a road trip and visit all of them.
Megan and I went out to Jider El Moghen finally. We had a ton of stuff to make a home with, a gas burner, pots, matilas to sleep on, a mat, even 2 spoons! Then we got to site and realized that the dream house would take a lot of work and we would have to hall all of the stuff from Rosso. So instead we spent the first few days just talking with families and introducing ourselves and asking if anyone knew of an open house anywhere. We have a few options, the best being the mayor's nephew's house. We basically just asked the nephew if he would move out and let us live there. So we will see how that goes; but as of now I am living with my counterpart who is very nice. She also has the cutest little girl, Fatimatou, that I have ever seen. I want one just like her. Haha, just kidding mom.
Another volunteer, Mike, came out for the day to help us with all of our stuff and to just get out of Rosso for a bit. He left the next day and now everyone in town thinks he is one of our husbands. My family asked me why my husband left me so quickly. Haha, I didn't correct some people because I figured it would be easier just to pretend I was married so that women didn't try to set me up with their sons.
Ramadan also started the day after we got there, which throws an interesting little twist on things. They are not allowed to let anything pass their lips from sunrise to sunset. That is no water, no food, no brushing the teeth (not like they do anyways but you know what I mean). This means that no one cooks for us. We also cannot buy anything in our boutiques in town, every time we ask where we can get something the answer is Senegal. We have decided Senegal is the land of magical things like cheese, bread, jewelry, alcohol, beaches, pants, and palm trees. Our side of the river has no palm trees and the senegal side is lined with them. It is really bizarre. Anyways, it is up to us to be creative with the things our lovely families have sent us in our packages. We made mac and cheese, but did not have butter so we used laughing cow instead and it was delicious. We also made canned ravioli. Then we got really crazy and made a chili with a chili seasoning packet and beans and corn. Sorry I talk about food so much but it is always on my mind here because there is nothing else to do but cook, prepare to cook, go to the market to buy food to cook, eat, and then think about the next time you get to eat. Plus things that would not normally taste good are now great. Like mayonaise on bread, I don't even like mayo, but I do here. So when I try something new I have to think, do I really like this or is it just that I am in Mauritania?
Other than obsessing over food, or lack of food, we have also decided we want to become buff since there is nothing else to do. We went running, which was interesting in this humidity, and we also worked out in Megan's room. People told us for days how they saw us working out and mimicked our arm excercises and laughed at us. I think the women would like a little fitness club though, it is entertaining for them. We also walked about half hour out of town, along the river and tanned in our bathing suits! We tried evening out our legs to match our arms, but instead my arms just got darker. We read and played cards and it was just lovely until we got swarmed by hundreds of bees and ran screaming down the path in our skivies. Everyone within 10 miles of us now know the toubabs have come to town. We also saw a monkey, some giant kuuti lizard guys, cows, and the cutest baby goat ever. I got really excited about the monkey and started clapping and it scared it off.
I learned Hassaniya and Megan learned French so it is funny because we are constantly translating between conversations and there is only one of us at a time that knows what is going on. Also, not everyone speaks Hassaniya, not everyone speaks French, but everyone speaks Wolof (the language of Senegal) which neither Megan or I speak. So that is also fun.
So after a few days we came back into Rosso for Megan's 25th birthday! The hour trip took us 4.5 hours because it had rained the day before and the "dirt road" was washed out. We were in a giant white van in a caravan with 4 other giant white vans. We got stuck at least 10 times and every time we did was an ordeal. Everyone would have to unload from the van and walk in knee deep mud to a drier spot where the van would meet us. Then they tied a rope to the van and would literally drag the van through the mud. Then move on to the next van. Then when all the vans made it we would pack it back up and drive for about 10 minutes and get stuck again. We pretty much pulled the van the entire 35 kilometers. We got to Rosso dripping with sweat, covered in mud, and sunburned regardless of how much spf 70 we put on. We got to the house and everyone laughed at the site of us, and we laughed to right up until the point where I tried to turn the water on and, what do you know, Rosso was out of water again. What an experience, TIA (this is Africa). I can't wait to make the journey back in a few days.
Anyways, for Megan's birthday we made sandwhiches because she is kind of obsessed by them. Rocco went to Senegal and got lunch meat and real cheese and we made proper sandwhiches and home made french fries, it was delicious. I had a birthday candle and we put it in the bread and Megan made a wish. I hope it was that we find a house soon so I can finally unpack my bags that I have been living out of for the past 3 months. A few of the guys got an online Football package so we can have Football Sundays and I can watch along with all the rest of the persistent fans back home as the Bears bomb this year!
I got all of my maladies under control finally and now have a normal bowel movement, etc. I did have bed bugs so I am now covered in little red dots, but at least they don't itch.
I got renamed, I am now Jemilla which is closer to my real name and it means pretty so I like this name better.
I randomly got to skype with mike and carina today. They seem really happy. I am so proud of them. It is so weird they are in Korea and I am in Africa and we were skyping! I love it. There is a camera here in the Rosso bureau and everything so if you want to skype, add me, I am jaime.pollard.
Well this is starting to be unconcentrated. Keep me updated with your lives!!!! I would also love to see some pictures so you should all get online too and do that. At least it doesn't take you 5 hours to upload 20 pictures so none of you have excuses. Anna, I want to see some football game pics or homecoming, etc. or if any of you want to print some pics and send them to me people here love seeing pictures from home!
Megan and I went out to Jider El Moghen finally. We had a ton of stuff to make a home with, a gas burner, pots, matilas to sleep on, a mat, even 2 spoons! Then we got to site and realized that the dream house would take a lot of work and we would have to hall all of the stuff from Rosso. So instead we spent the first few days just talking with families and introducing ourselves and asking if anyone knew of an open house anywhere. We have a few options, the best being the mayor's nephew's house. We basically just asked the nephew if he would move out and let us live there. So we will see how that goes; but as of now I am living with my counterpart who is very nice. She also has the cutest little girl, Fatimatou, that I have ever seen. I want one just like her. Haha, just kidding mom.
Another volunteer, Mike, came out for the day to help us with all of our stuff and to just get out of Rosso for a bit. He left the next day and now everyone in town thinks he is one of our husbands. My family asked me why my husband left me so quickly. Haha, I didn't correct some people because I figured it would be easier just to pretend I was married so that women didn't try to set me up with their sons.
Ramadan also started the day after we got there, which throws an interesting little twist on things. They are not allowed to let anything pass their lips from sunrise to sunset. That is no water, no food, no brushing the teeth (not like they do anyways but you know what I mean). This means that no one cooks for us. We also cannot buy anything in our boutiques in town, every time we ask where we can get something the answer is Senegal. We have decided Senegal is the land of magical things like cheese, bread, jewelry, alcohol, beaches, pants, and palm trees. Our side of the river has no palm trees and the senegal side is lined with them. It is really bizarre. Anyways, it is up to us to be creative with the things our lovely families have sent us in our packages. We made mac and cheese, but did not have butter so we used laughing cow instead and it was delicious. We also made canned ravioli. Then we got really crazy and made a chili with a chili seasoning packet and beans and corn. Sorry I talk about food so much but it is always on my mind here because there is nothing else to do but cook, prepare to cook, go to the market to buy food to cook, eat, and then think about the next time you get to eat. Plus things that would not normally taste good are now great. Like mayonaise on bread, I don't even like mayo, but I do here. So when I try something new I have to think, do I really like this or is it just that I am in Mauritania?
Other than obsessing over food, or lack of food, we have also decided we want to become buff since there is nothing else to do. We went running, which was interesting in this humidity, and we also worked out in Megan's room. People told us for days how they saw us working out and mimicked our arm excercises and laughed at us. I think the women would like a little fitness club though, it is entertaining for them. We also walked about half hour out of town, along the river and tanned in our bathing suits! We tried evening out our legs to match our arms, but instead my arms just got darker. We read and played cards and it was just lovely until we got swarmed by hundreds of bees and ran screaming down the path in our skivies. Everyone within 10 miles of us now know the toubabs have come to town. We also saw a monkey, some giant kuuti lizard guys, cows, and the cutest baby goat ever. I got really excited about the monkey and started clapping and it scared it off.
I learned Hassaniya and Megan learned French so it is funny because we are constantly translating between conversations and there is only one of us at a time that knows what is going on. Also, not everyone speaks Hassaniya, not everyone speaks French, but everyone speaks Wolof (the language of Senegal) which neither Megan or I speak. So that is also fun.
So after a few days we came back into Rosso for Megan's 25th birthday! The hour trip took us 4.5 hours because it had rained the day before and the "dirt road" was washed out. We were in a giant white van in a caravan with 4 other giant white vans. We got stuck at least 10 times and every time we did was an ordeal. Everyone would have to unload from the van and walk in knee deep mud to a drier spot where the van would meet us. Then they tied a rope to the van and would literally drag the van through the mud. Then move on to the next van. Then when all the vans made it we would pack it back up and drive for about 10 minutes and get stuck again. We pretty much pulled the van the entire 35 kilometers. We got to Rosso dripping with sweat, covered in mud, and sunburned regardless of how much spf 70 we put on. We got to the house and everyone laughed at the site of us, and we laughed to right up until the point where I tried to turn the water on and, what do you know, Rosso was out of water again. What an experience, TIA (this is Africa). I can't wait to make the journey back in a few days.
Anyways, for Megan's birthday we made sandwhiches because she is kind of obsessed by them. Rocco went to Senegal and got lunch meat and real cheese and we made proper sandwhiches and home made french fries, it was delicious. I had a birthday candle and we put it in the bread and Megan made a wish. I hope it was that we find a house soon so I can finally unpack my bags that I have been living out of for the past 3 months. A few of the guys got an online Football package so we can have Football Sundays and I can watch along with all the rest of the persistent fans back home as the Bears bomb this year!
I got all of my maladies under control finally and now have a normal bowel movement, etc. I did have bed bugs so I am now covered in little red dots, but at least they don't itch.
I got renamed, I am now Jemilla which is closer to my real name and it means pretty so I like this name better.
I randomly got to skype with mike and carina today. They seem really happy. I am so proud of them. It is so weird they are in Korea and I am in Africa and we were skyping! I love it. There is a camera here in the Rosso bureau and everything so if you want to skype, add me, I am jaime.pollard.
Well this is starting to be unconcentrated. Keep me updated with your lives!!!! I would also love to see some pictures so you should all get online too and do that. At least it doesn't take you 5 hours to upload 20 pictures so none of you have excuses. Anna, I want to see some football game pics or homecoming, etc. or if any of you want to print some pics and send them to me people here love seeing pictures from home!
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